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Basilica of San Vitale

June 13, 2012 in Church Interior, Interior Detailing, Italy

 A post that will follow in the next week or so that I’m working on already is one that details my adventures with the Magi, or the Three Wise Men or Kings as they are more commonly known. I completed a Masters Thesis entitled, The Three Magi as the Figures of Wisdom: Studies in Patristic and Hiberno-Latin Exegesis. Since then the Magi have become an important part of my discernment process towards vocation. They have represented for me a growing and strengthening of a faith that. This can only be described as being built first upon very shaky foundations, then shook hard and often in the early days of my discernment towards vocation. This is a path I am back on and working through discernement and ultimately, please God, towards Ordination. San Vitale for me therefore was in many ways a spiritual revelation of sorts. A mix of complicated feeling as there is there a representation of the Magi which came to be something deeply entwined in my faith.

There are greater scholars and academics than me, so I won’t attempt to detail the overwhelming and powerful symbolism associated with this beautiful place. I will, where appropriate, point out the obvious because we can’t all be trained or familiar with the rich imagery of a place like this! So those of you here to (hopefully!) enjoy the images will not be too cruel at what can only be described as the pondering of a medieval history graduate! Now, it must also be conceded that this blog is entitled Mc’Auliffe photography there is often a great amount of text. I write in the hope that people will forgive me using this website as a somewhat at times reflective exercise and for my sometimes ponderous expression and further hope the quality of the photographs available more then make up for it!

Below are some details of remaining section of mosaic within the Basilica of San Vitale. The church was begun by Bishop Ecclesius in 527, when Ravenna was under the rule of the Ostrogoths, and completed by the 27th Bishop of Ravenna, Maximian in 546 during the Byzantine Exarchate of Ravenna. The architect of this church is unknown. Read more here…

1. The Apse, which is situated over the Altar of the Church. On the Right is Bishop Ecclesius who began the Church, depicted holding a church. On the far left is Saint Vitalis himself after whom the Church is dedicated. At the top you have the city of Bethlehem on the right and on the left you have Jerusalem, the angels in the space between are to represent the vastness of humanity and the salvation Christ offered to both Jews represented by the former and the Gentiles by the latter. And in the centre you have Christ.

2. Moving forward you have the celing directly over the sanctuary and above the altar. It depicts Christ again, this time as the Lamb of God, Agnus Dei. This is representative of Christ’s sacrifice.

3. This panel shows two Old Testament prophets, Jeremiah on the left and Moses on the right. Also depicted is Abrahams sacrifice of his son Isaac and the appearing of the lamb to take his place once God had established his willingness. This is demonstrated by God’s hand reaching out to stay Abraham. Over on the lower right there is a group gathered below Moses, they are representatives of the twelve tribes of Israel.

 

4. In this panel Moses again is present this time it shows his encounter with the burning bush when God spoke to him. Also featured is the prophet Isaiah. Melchizedek is also depicted here at the altar along with Abel.

5.  The Evangelists: Matthew the Man, Luke the Eagle, Mark the Lion, John the Ox.

6. Arch at the entrance to the Sanctuary. For me, this was the most impressive of all the aspects of this place. It commanded the whole sanctuary entrance. It depicts the twelve apostles with Christ at the centre, also depicted are the two saints Gervasius and Protasius after who’s father, San Vitale, the Dedication of the Church is named after.

 

7. Finally, what are known as the Imperial Panels of San Vitale. At the foot of the apse side walls are two famous mosaic panels, executed in 548AD. On the right is a mosaic depicting the East Roman Emperor Justinian I, clad in purple with a golden halo, standing next to court officials, Bishop Maximian, palatinae guards and deacons. The halo around his head gives him the same aspect as Christ in the dome of the apse. Justinian himself stands in the middle, with soldiers on his right and clergy on his left, emphasizing that Justinian is the leader of both church and state of his empire.The gold background of the mosaic shows that Justinian and his entourage are inside the church. The figures are placed in a V shape; Justinian is placed in the front and in the middle to show his importance with Bishop Maximian on his left.

Another panel shows Empress Theodora solemn and formal, with golden halo, crown and jewels, and a train of court ladies. The mosaic depicting the Magi is located on the left hand side of the choir below the apse mosaic showing Christ in glory. The Magi are literally woven into the clothes of the Empress Theodora who is surrounded by her attendants as she proceeds to the altar in a symbolic gesture of gift giving. She holds the chalice with the Eucharistic wine and on an opposite panel, her husband the Emperor Justinian carries the paten. In including the Magi as part of the design Theodora was invoking them as the archetypal gift bearers, and by association she herself becomes an exemplary gift bearer.

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Santi Quattro Coronati, Rome

May 30, 2012 in Church Interior, Interior Detailing, Italy, Mnastery

Santi Quattro Coronati is an ancient basilica in Rome, Italy. The church dates back to the 4th (or 5th) century, and is devoted to four anonymous saints and martyrs. The complex of the basilica with its two courtyards, the fortified Cardinal Palace with the St. Silvester chapel, and the Monastery with its cosmatesque cloister is built in a silent and green part of Rome, between the Colosseum and San Giovanni in Laterano, in an out-of-time setting. (Taken from here)

For me my little adventures to Italy are all about finding places off the beaten track, things that spark a fascination and an interest for me. That throw up a nostalgia to childhood fascination with all that is old and tumbled down. The romantic aspect of this old rambling fortified basilica and monastery are for me all part of what I have fallen in love with about Italy.

We spent almost forty, forty-five minutes wandering round this beautiful old building. We were allowed into this magnificent cloister also. Access was given by ringing a doorbell that is in the basilica just off the Knave. It was one of those moments that lingers in the mind, having rung there was a pause and we waited. Initially we thought it wouldn’t be opened but as we turned to walk away the bolts on the other side rattled and the door creaked open. A middle-aged nun greeting us warmly with a smile and stood back to allow us enter the sheltered cloister. We wandered around here for at least twenty minutes enjoying the peace in the middle of Rome. Fixed to the wall were a number of old stone carvings and some small frescoes that had survived.

Then we saw a rather crude sign, indicating the Chapel of Saint Sylvester. It triggered a memory! But I couldn’t quite recall what exactly that was. So we wandered over, curiosity getting the proverbial of us, and were faced with another door and a bell to ring. We rang and a nun dutifully appeared. She indicated no photographs and a donation for restoration was encouraged. I stepped in. And the below images are what I was faced with. The reason there were pictures was because I went out, gave a donation of €20 to the nun and was told by the same startled nun to take as many as I wanted! Obviously the encouraged donations are few and far between!

1. Depicts Christ Enthroned. Surrounded by the Apostles. It depicts the Emperor Constantine falling ill to Leprosy following on from this there are riders sent forth to search for a cure.

2. The first panel depicts the riders arrival to the Pope, Sylvester I. What follows is an illustration of Pope Sylvester instructing the Emperor Constantine in the Christian faith. What can also be seen in this series of panels is the presence of 7 towers which represent the 7 Hills of Rome. This is probably to emphasize the running theme of the ultimate donation of Rome by the Emperor Constantine to the Papacy. What follows in the final panel is the curing of Constantine through the waters of baptism.

3. This depicts the formal donation of Constantine to Pope Sylvester of the city of Rome, again here depicted as the 7 towers on the 7 hills of Rome. What is being passed between the two is the Imperial Tiara indicating the Emperors temporal authority being handed over to the Papacy. Constantine’s other hand grasps the reigns of a horse.

4. The horse seen previously now here seen being led by the Emperor through the gates of Rome to formalise the donation and complete the process.

5. This shows the work of the Empress Helena and the discovery of the relics of the true cross in Jerusalem. 

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Why I love travelling?

May 24, 2012 in Italy, UK

I post a lot of fairly religious heavy stuff from trips to Italy and the UK. Ultimately this is the purpose of this blog, it is photos of my trips to various places but tend to have a fairly religion, churches in particular, focussed theme. But a lot of the time while these places are highlights often it is the bits in between, the travelling, the quiet reflective moments in an all but forgotten monastery. This is what makes travelling special for me, the peace and reflection. Below are a sample of some of my very favourites.

 

1. An Assisi side street, we spent a day in Assisi last summer and I fell in love. As we wandered around we were so lucky to find some of these wonderful little spots where I was able to capture memories like these two. I think while there we visited every church in the place opened or not and found a wonderful peace in wandering round. It felt like time travel! It’s a place that feels like it’s had a pause put on it and time has stood still.

 

 

 

2. Umbrian countryside. I’ve posted this picture before, but I think I had actually spoiled it with the changes I made to it. This is the original, I think it stands up for itself. What I said when I posted it the last time was this,  ”I thought I’d post this shot, more as a reminder to Italy then anything else. Been thinking a lot about that beautiful country lately! My heart yearns to go back!” This is holding true!

3. Florence. La Firenze! I love this place, and on reflection I think for me it is closer to my heart then Rome. I found it warm, welcoming. The sunset as depicted here over the Florentine skyline for me evokes wonderful recollections. One of my favourite times spent in Florence was in the dusk of the early evening watching the shadows retreating as the sun crept lower and lower down behind these historic buildings.

 

 

4. I’m planning a very large trip this summer to the UK as I had spent time there last December with some friends and got the itch to see some British Cathedrals as only they can build them! I’m planning on covering a lot of ground almost 2500 kilometers in 9 days. Below is a corner of the Cathedral Square in Exeter and a view back up to the Moors from Widdecombe-on-the-moor in Devon. Beautiful, beautiful places, it sums up what I’m looking forward to quaint “englishness” in some of these very old towns and the often dramatic beautiful landscapes!

 

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Mosaic Ceilings, a recent adventure to Italy.

May 15, 2012 in Church Interior, Interior Detailing, Italy

Below are a sample of some of my very favourite mosaics on the ceilings of chapels, baptistries. I find that all of these images are especially beautiful and represent some of the best of early Christian imagery.

1. The Baptistry of Neon – Ravenna. The most ancient monument remaining in the city, it was partly erected on the site of a Roman bath. It is also called the Orthodox Baptistry to distinguish it from the Arian Baptistry constructed on behest of Ostrogothic King Theodoric some 50 years later. Read More.

It depicts the baptism of Christ by St. John the Baptist with the Holy Spirit descending upon Christ. With a depiction of the River Jordan holding Christs garments. All while surrounded by the 12 Apostles, with St. Peter and Paul meeting at the foot of the image.

2. The Basilica of Saint Praxedes (Latin: Basilica Sanctae Praxedis, Italian: Basilica di Santa Prassede all’Esquillino), commonly known in Italian as Santa Prassede, is an ancient titular church and minor basilica in Rome, Italy, located near the papal basilica of Saint Mary Major. The current Cardinal Priest of Titulus Sancta Praxedis is Paul Poupard. Read More.

3. The Arian Baptistry in Ravenna, Italy was erected by the Ostrogothic King Theodoric the Great between the end of the 5th century and the beginning of the sixth century, at the same time as the Basilica of Sant’ Apollinare Nuovo. Read More. Read More.

On the left of this image again the River Jordan is depicted as Christ is baptised by St. John the Baptist. As with the Neon Baptistry a procession of the apostles is below the image.

4. Basilica of San Vitale, styled an “ecclesiastical basilica” in the Roman Catholic Church, though it is not of architectural basilica form — is a church in Ravenna, Italy, one of the most important examples of early Christian Byzantine Art and architecture in western Europe. The building is one of eight Ravenna structures inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Read More.

Above the altar in the Basilica is this image. The ancient symbol of Christ as sacrificial lamb.

5. The Archbishop’s Chapel, Ravenna. This is a chapel on the first floor of the bishops’ palace in Ravenna, Italy, the smallest of the famous mosaic sites of the city. It is a private oratory of Trinitarian bishops dating from the turn of the 6th century. Although commonly attributed to St. Peter Chrysologus, Archbishop of Ravenna from 433–450, the chapel was actually built by Peter II shortly after he became archbishop in 495. The mosaics date from the original construction, or soon after. Read More.

Here you have the Evangelists depicted, contemporary sources show these as Matthew the Man (Bottom Centre), Luke the Eagle (Right), Mark the Lion (Top Centre), and John the Ox (Left). If you’ve a mind to read further on this you may find this article useful. Article: Patristic and Insular Traditions of the Evangelists: Exegesis and Iconography of the Four-Symbols Page, by Dr. Jennifer O’Reilly.

 

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San Gregorio Magno al Celio, Cathedra

April 27, 2012 in Church Interior, Interior Detailing, Italy

San Gregorio Magno al Celio, also known as San Gregorio al Celio or simply San Gregorio, is a church in Rome, Italy, which is part of a monastery of monks of the Camaldolese branch of the Benedictine Order. St. Augustine of Canterbury and his Benedictines were sent by Pope Saint Gregory the Great, the basilica’s namesake and patron saint, to evangelize England in 597 AD. The 1,100th anniversary of the founding of their order was celebrated here at an evening Lenten Vespers service on Saturday, March 10, 2012. It was attended by Anglican and Catholic prelates, and was jointly led by the Holy Father, His Holiness Pope Benedict XVI, and His Grace, theMost Reverend Archbishop Dr. Rowan Williams, Archbishop of Canterbury. It is located on the Caelian Hill, in front of the Palatine. Next to the basilica and monastery is a convent of nuns and a homeless shelter run by the order Blessed Mother Teresa of Calcutta founded, the Missionaries of Charity. Read more…

For me, this was something really, really special. It was unplanned, me and my travelling companion Jonathan had been at Basilica Papale di San Paolo fuori le Mura (The Papal Basilica of St Paul Outside the Walls) and while there I remembered this spot on the Caelian hill… Gregrory the Great is someone I’ve studied extensively and his life is something very special and inspirational to me. This was probably the highlight of my trip. In a side chapel in the Church, Gregory’s Cathedra.

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Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II

March 13, 2012 in Italy

The Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II (National Monument to Victor Emmanuel II) or Altare della Patria (Altar of the Motherland) or “Il Vittoriano” is a monument built to honour Victor Emmanuel, the first king of a unified Italy, located in Rome, Italy. It occupies a site between the Piazza Venezia and the Capitoline Hill. The monument was designed by Giuseppe Sacconi in 1885; sculpture for it was parceled out to established sculptors all over Italy, such as Leonardo Bistolfi and Angelo Zanelli.It was inaugurated in 1911 and completed in 1935.

The monument is built of white marble from Botticino, Brescia, and features stairways, Corinthian columns, fountains, an equestrian sculpture of Victor Emmanuel and two statues of the goddess Victoria riding on quadrigas. The structure is 135 m (443 ft) wide and 70 m (230 ft) high. If the quadrigae and winged victories are included, the height is to 81 m (266 ft).

The base of the structure houses the museum of Italian Reunification. In 2007, a panoramic elevator was added to the structure, allowing visitors to ride up to the roof for 360 degree views of Rome.

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Umbrian Hillside, as seen from Assisi

February 7, 2012 in Italy

I thought I’d post this shot, more as a reminder to Italy then anything else. Been thinking a lot about that beautiful country lately! My heart yearns to go back!

 

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